Alentejo: Space, silence and endless starry skies
- Ilse Woorts
- Apr 28
- 6 min read
Updated: May 6
Would you like to discover a completely different side to Portugal? In the Alentejo, it’s all about space, silence and the good life. Extensive nature, authentic villages and a cuisine full of rich flavours make this region unique. Think of local produce such as artisanal sheep's cheese and vineyards that produce some of Portugal's best wines. Add to that one of the clearest night skies in Europe and you know: you want to be here.
The road to peace
From Lisbon, you drive in just over two hours towards the Spanish border to Monsaraz. You leave the hustle and bustle of the city behind, and soon the roads become calmer, making way for endless vistas. The first olive trees appear along the way, and as you drive deeper into the region, the typical Alentejo landscape unfolds: rolling hills interspersed with characteristic cork trees, extensive vineyards and endless olive groves.
Montimerso SkyScape: Immersing yourself in nature
Just outside Monsaraz, I stay at Montimerso SkyScape Country House, a unique accommodation surrounded by nature with a view over the vast Alqueva lake. As soon as you enter the gates, you know you’ve arrived somewhere special. The complex is designed in such a way that it completely blends into the landscape; you hardly see it. Idyllic, pure and remote are the magic words for the coming days here. Time to slow down, take it all in, and go offline for a while.
The area around the Alqueva feels almost unreal: endlessly vast. While the lavender is in full bloom, you can see sheep and cows grazing quietly in the distance. This is the typical expanse of the Alentejo: an open, unspoilt landscape where the greenery around the lake contrasts beautifully with the blue horizon.
That same sense of peace can be found at Montimerso SkyScape Country House.
The atmosphere here has a pure boho feel, and every detail has been carefully considered. Soft earth tones and natural colours are combined with materials such as wood, linen and wicker, which blend seamlessly with the surroundings. Every view is centred on the lake, allowing you to enjoy the scenery at all times. It feels less like a hotel and more like a place where you immediately feel at home. Upon arrival, we enjoy a charcuterie platter and a glass of local wine by the open fire.
Life is good!
Discover the area around the Alqueva Lake
From Montimerso, you can take beautiful hikes towards the wetlands of Alqueva. A quiet and spacious area where you can see many bird species, but also encounter wild boars, sheep and goats. Nature here feels untouched, and the silence is almost tangible.
For those who want to explore the region further, there are more ways to take in the landscape. A hot air balloon ride at sunrise over the water is magical, but this experience depends heavily on the right weather conditions. Alternatively, you can hire a bike to explore the area. And if you want to be on the water, you can hire a boat or explore the lake by canoe or stand-up paddleboard, simply enjoying the landscape from the water.
Thousands of stars in the sky
As evening falls, the owner offers a great tip: "Make sure you take a seat at the stargazing spot." This open space, furnished with wooden pallets, cushions, and a bench, serves as the perfect lookout. As soon as you look up, you immediately understand the appeal. The view is breathtaking, with thousands of stars twinkling in an inky black sky.
The sky here is so clear that the area is part of the Alqueva Dark Sky Reserve. Thanks to minimal light pollution, this is one of the best places in Europe to admire the universe. With more than 280 clear nights a year, you might even catch a glimpse of the Milky Way with a bit of luck.
There is a telescope inside the restaurant, and for the real enthusiasts, there is an observatory where you can get a guided explanation of this extraordinary phenomenon.
As soon as you wake up, you want one thing: to open the curtains and take in the view. The glistening lake stretches out before you as the sun slowly rises. The perfect silence is only broken by the rustling of a rabbit in the bushes or the lowing of the cows. It really doesn’t get better than this.
Monsaraz: A journey back in time
After this early sunrise, I hop on my mountain bike and head towards Monsaraz. It's a tough climb, but the sight of the castle getting closer and closer makes it all worthwhile.
Monsaraz is a beautiful white fortified town on top of a hill. The moment you step through the city gates, you are transported to another time. Narrow streets, whitewashed houses and a central square by the church form the heart of this village. The residents maintain everything with visible pride, ensuring it looks immaculate: clean, well-kept and enriched with small details such as terracotta pots, benches and shutters.
You will find small boutiques selling handmade art and beautiful tableware, making it the ideal place for an authentic souvenir. Take your time to wander through the alleys and climb the castle for the most fantastic view of the region. Afterward, find a spot on one of the terraces, enjoy a fine glass of wine, and take in the magnificent sunset.
Further on, in the middle of the landscape, you will find the mysterious menhirs. These ancient stones stand in a circle and give the area a magical atmosphere. It is an impressive site that reminds us of the distant history of this area and is also one of the best places for stargazing at night.
Relaxation in the Skydome
When I return, the Skydome is waiting for me. This private dome features its own sauna and jacuzzi, equipped with a fully transparent window. There are few places where you can relax with such a view. It feels almost surreal, as if you have landed in a science fiction world. I catch myself wondering: is this even real?
And maybe that's the best thing about it all. Because yes, this is really real! What an experience!
On the last day, I explore the beaches along the lake and drive over the impressive bridge that cuts through the landscape. The vastness of the Alentejo is particularly striking here. The beaches look inviting, with parasols and cozy spots for a drink, such as Praia Fluvial de Monsaraz.
On the way back, I stop off for a culinary treat in Monsaraz at Sahida. Nestled within historic walls, you can savour traditional flavours in a stylish, intimate setting. With a beautiful terrace and views of the surrounding area, it's definitely worth a visit.
The ultimate finale
Before I leave, I take one last dip in the infinity pool. Everything comes together here. As you gaze over the edge, the sleek water of the pool merges seamlessly with the Lake Alqueva. No filters needed; the endless horizon and absolute silence do the work. It's the perfect finale.
The Alentejo is pure, hospitable and unpolished. It is a region that you don't just visit, but experience. For anyone looking for space, authenticity and one of Portugal's best-kept secrets: this is the place.
Would you like to experience this too? This is not to be missed: ✨
Stay at Montimerso SkyScape Country House: The ultimate experience of peace, luxury and stargazing. This sustainable country house is located in a unique spot on the Alqueva Lake.
Hot Air Balloon ride over the Alqueva Lake: Watching the sun rise over the water from a balloon is magical. More info, visit Fly Dreams Alentejo
Cycling in the region: rent a bike to explore the surrounding area. Please note that you will often be riding on the main roads as dedicated cycle paths remain limited here. More info, visit Galacio Bike
There are beautiful hikes from Montimerso towards the wetlands of the Alqueva. This is a peaceful area where you can see lots of birds, as well as wild boars, sheep and goats.
Water activities on the lake: You can explore the lake by canoe or stand-up paddleboard or simply enjoy the landscape from the water.
Beaches at the Alqueva Lake: There are several tranquil beach areas (praias fluviais) around the Alqueva reservoir where you can relax and cool off in the water. Recommended are Praia Fluvial de Monsaraz (with beautiful views of the village) and Praia Fluvial de Mourão (quiet and less crowded).
Have lunch or dinner in Monsaraz: Restaurant Sahida (@sahida_monsaraz) is stylish, intimate and located in a beautiful traditional setting. They have an outdoor terrace with stunning views.
Published on Trip Talk.nl on April 28th, 2026
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