Arrábida: Portugal’s hidden azure coast where you can spot dolphins
- Ilse Woorts
- May 5, 2025
- 6 min read
Updated: May 6
When you hear the name Portugal, you might immediately think of Lisbon, the yellow trams, and the bustling streets along the Tagus. But what if I told you that just an hour's drive away lies a completely different world?
Imagine a place nestled between mountains and sea with secluded beaches amongst green hills, where dolphins play in crystal-clear waters and deserted sandbanks offer the perfect setting for a tranquil picnic. Welcome to the Arrábida Nature Park, a side of Portugal that still feels surprisingly undiscovered.
A Travel Story from This Beautiful Region
I drive towards the Setúbal peninsula and cross the Vasco da Gama bridge, the longest bridge in Portugal. As I leave the Tagus behind, the landscape slowly changes from urban to spacious and lush green. Arrábida awaits on the other side: a nature reserve full of cliffs and bays that wouldn't look out of place in the Caribbean, with crystal-clear and azure-blue water.
A serene retreat in the vineyards
Often, the feeling you get from a destination starts with the place where you stay. Hotel Casa Palmela is the perfect example of this. This 17th-century country house is hidden away on an expansive estate in the Arrábida Nature Park. Located between Setúbal and Sesimbra, it is the ideal base for combining the coast with the peace and tranquillity of the countryside.
The arrival sets the tone immediately: as soon as the gates open, you drive along a long driveway lined with extensive vineyards towards the historic building. It already feels special arriving like this.
Inside, time seems to have stood still. Portraits of the original noble family, antique furniture and personal details tell the story of the house. Traditional azulejos, beautiful arched ceilings and even a small chapel reflect the rich history of the estate. Everything has been carefully preserved, giving it the feel of a private residence with the service of a five-star hotel.
Gastronomy with a view
When you arrive at midday, the terrace is where you want to be. The panoramic view over the vineyards and rolling mountains emphasises the vastness of this place. With its linen details and minimalist design, the setting exudes a calm and refined ambience. I chose a local fish dish, paired with a glass of rosé, and could easily stay here all afternoon.
Discovering Arrábida
The next day, I have an early date with my guide José from Once Upon a Day, who takes me on a mountain bike tour of the park. “See that mountain over there?” He points to one of the highest hills of Arrábida. A little later, he takes out a map and explains the route. First, we go up, to enjoy the views of the secluded coves, and then we cycle down along the coast, so that we can see the azure-blue water up close. “Are you ready?” he asks with a smile. I nod. And off we go. 🚴♀️✨
Climbing between history and nature
With gradients of around 6%, it's a tough climb, but thanks to the electric assistance, I can cycle along effortlessly. It's a real buzz: I can even keep up with the cyclists, although I have to be careful because motorcyclists have also discovered this winding route.
The highlights come thick and fast along the way. From the house on the rock where Jackie Kennedy stayed, to the white monastery built into the mountainside, and the small chapels scattered over the peaks. Even Roman traces are still visible here, such as the ancient salt pans where the fishing industry was once processed.
One of the most beautiful beaches in Europe
The coastal views are spectacular. First from the mountain ridge, then right by the water. Praia de Galapinhos, in particular, makes an impression: this secluded bay with azure waters was named one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe for good reason.
The fact that the beaches are difficult to reach by car makes the bike the ideal means of transport. We easily cycle to the most beautiful viewpoints and secluded paths along the coast without having to look for a parking space. It’s a physical challenge, but one that never gets boring thanks to the impressive scenery and rich history.
The raw charm of Setúbal
In the afternoon, I drive to Setúbal, the region's absolute fish mecca.
It’s a vibrant coastal city with characteristic coloured houses, atmospheric squares and a relaxed vibe where life is mostly lived outside. In the harbour, you can immediately sense the maritime atmosphere: fishing boats, local markets and restaurants where the day's catch is grilled fresh. It is a city that is both raw and charming, and the perfect place to end an active day.
I fall into a deep sleep in my classic room, as if I were part of the aristocracy for one night.
Dolphins in the Sado
At 09:00, I am picked up for a special adventure on the water. Together with Salvador from the hotel, I head to the harbour in Setúbal, where a catamaran from À Vela Passeios is waiting for us, complete with well-stocked picnic baskets.
We sail towards the sandbanks in the estuary of the Sado, where river and ocean meet. This area is home to one of the few resident groups of bottlenose dolphins in Europe. Since they live here permanently, there is a good chance of seeing them.
It doesn’t take long before dolphins appear, moving slowly through the calm water, a moment of pure serenity in motion.
A picnic on the water
At low tide, beautiful, pristine white sandbanks appear in the middle of the ocean, only accessible by tender. We moor on a deserted strip of sand and enjoy a picnic in complete silence. From here, you can see in all directions: Arrábida on the one hand, Tróia with its ruins on the other, and in the distance the harbour of Setúbal. One huge, open panorama, 360 degrees around. Have you ever experienced a setting like this?
On our last evening, back at the hotel, I watched the sunset over the vineyards, with warm golden colours on the horizon.
A region that you immediately want to explore!
Arrábida and Setúbal really surprised me. It feels unspoilt, especially considering how close it is to Lisbon. It's as if you're stepping into a completely different world, just an hour's drive from the city.
It's a place where everything comes together: rugged nature, quiet roads, azure-blue bays and then the lively city by the water.
It's not just the views that stay with you, but the moments in between. Cycling along the coast, having lunch with a view of the vineyards, seeing dolphins in the water and having a picnic on a sandbank in the middle of the ocean. These are just some of the experiences you can have here.
Are you ready to discover this part of Portugal?
Highlights of Arrábida and Setúbal
✔ Stay at the Hotel Casa Palmela, surrounded by the Arrábida vineyards.
✔ Cycle along the mountain ridge and enjoy views of the sea and cliffs
For more information, visit Once Upon a Day
✔ Discover Praia de Galapinhos, one of Europe’s most beautiful hidden beaches
✔ Spot dolphins in the Sado estuary
✔ Take a catamaran trip along the sandbanks and Tróia
For more information, visit À Vela Passeios
✔ Have a picnic on a deserted sandbank in the middle of the ocean
✔ Explore the colourful town of Setúbal and sample fresh fish at the harbour
Would you like to know more about unique places to stay in small luxury hotels in Portugal?
How about spending the night in a wine barrel, surrounded by the vineyards of the Douro, or in the charming Aveiro, a kind of mini-Venice with canals and colourful boats? Or perhaps you would prefer to stay high in the mountains of the Serra da Estrela, surrounded by silence and rugged nature, 0r go stargazing at Montimerso in the Alentejo?
This article is published on Reisleven.nl on May 5th, 2026.
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