Forget the coast: in the mountains of Serra da Estrela you will discover a completely different side of Portugal
- Ilse Woorts
- Apr 23
- 5 min read
The best-kept secret in Portugal: Serra da Estrela
Few people really know it, but in the heart of Portugal are the mountains of Serra da Estrela, just over a two-hour drive from Porto. It's not as well-known as a travel destination, and that's what makes it so special: fewer crowds, more space and pure nature.
A place where you can hike endlessly, relax on river beaches and have a picnic at hidden waterfalls. And yes, you can even ski here at an altitude of 2000 meters. These mountains are without doubt, one of the best kept secrets in the country.
Peace and quiet in Lapa dos Dinheiros
The unique Hotel Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa is located in the small mountain village of Lapa dos Dinheiros. This five-star hotel is hidden in the mountains in a place where peace and nature come together. Here you wake up with a view of the mountains, you hear nothing but silence, and you breathe in the fresh mountain air.
But I'm not here just to relax.
The hike to Covão dos Conchos
Deep in this rugged landscape is one of the most fascinating places in Portugal: the mysterious "hole" of Covão dos Conchos. It is a perfectly round opening in a mountain lake that looks like it is from another world. An appearance that raises questions before you even get there.
The hike to this surreal appearance starts from Lagoa Comprida. With a distance of about nine kilometers there and back at an altitude of 1500 meters, it is an accessible but tough walk. You walk on a rugged mountain path with loose stones and constant height differences while the panoramic views change continuously.
The idea that you walk on top of Portugal, between mountain lakes, flowering plants and endless silence, gives this hike an extra dimension. Eventually, you will be rewarded with an unreal face: There, in the middle of the reservoir, is a perfectly round funnel into which the water seems to disappear. Really bizarre.
What makes the image even more special is that the edges of this opening are completely covered with plants and mosses. It feels almost science fiction-like, like you've landed on another planet. It resembles an inverted waterfall, where the water does not fall down, but disappears into the depth.
Let it act quietly on you before the retreat begins. It is such a serene place. Take your picnic here, because say honestly: having lunch with such a view is hard to beat.
The mystery behind the phenomenon
What makes this place extra fascinating is that this "Hole" is not a natural phenomenon. It is an ingenious waterwork built to divert water between two reservoirs for energy generation. The contrast between the practical function and the alien appearance is beautiful.
Once back in Lagoa Comprida, I am overwhelmed by a sense of satisfaction: I have made it and, I would not have wanted to miss this hike for the world.
Authentic luxury at Casas da Lapa
After the effort, it is extra enjoyment to return to Casas da Lapa and relax in the spa, which we have all to ourselves. What a luxury.
This intimate hotel is located in a typical mountain village and is partly located in historic buildings from the 19th century. Here you wake up to the sound of church bells and mountain views. You can hear the roosters crowing, and everywhere that view of the mountains comes back, to the restaurant and by the pool.
The luxury here is not in excess, but in the experience. In peace, personal attention and the way everything is right. Everywhere in the hotel, you can see the connection with nature, also in the artworks made of natural materials. Sustainability and respect for the environment clearly play a role here, but in a subtle way. The hotel's motto is “feel at home here ”, and it works without any effort.
In the spa, treatments are fully tailored to your personal needs, while the restaurant works with seasonal products from the region. The dishes are inspired by the flavors of the Serra da Estrela: creative, refined and full of flavor, with mainly use of local products, such as traditional sheep’s cheese from the region.
The culinary highlight is when the chef personally brings dessert to the table. She passionately tells how she enjoys it when guests visibly enjoy her dishes. You can taste that personal attention and love for the profession in every course. You don't really have to leave here; everything is there to fully relax and enjoy.
The absolute chill spot is the sun beds by the pool. Under a reed awning of bamboo you look out over the mountains and the sunset with the sound of the natural waterfall in the background. It doesn't get better.
Estrela's natural wealth
Nevertheless, it is worth exploring the surrounding area.. The river beach of Lapa dos Dinheiros is twenty minutes from the hotel. Receptionist Christiana tips this as the ideal place for a picnic. We get a well-stocked basket with salads, fruit and chicken pie.
Behind the beach is a hidden waterfall, where we have lunch with only the soft murmur of the water in the background. Romance at its best. It takes some effort to reach the place, but it's definitely well worth it.
That afternoon we discover even more of this special region and visit several praias fluviais. Especially in summer, these spots offer a refreshing escape from the heat of the mountains. One of the most beautiful is the river beach at Loriga. The natural pools are cascaded between the mountains with super clear water flowing directly from the mountains.
Don't forget to explore the village itself. It's a sleepy, authentic Portuguese mountain village where time seems to stand still. Occasionally, an elderly lady or gentleman with a walking stick shuffles along the cobblestones, adding to the village’s timeless charm. The narrow streets and whitewashed houses that seem to be clinging to the mountainside make it a very photogenic place.
Skiing in Torre
Last but not least, there is Torre, a small -scale resort and the highest point of the Portuguese mainland at an altitude of 2,000 metres. And yes, in winter you can even ski here, on different pistes with a few lifts. Did you know that?
Driving in these mountains is quite exciting from time to time. With gradients of 12%, it is a route where you have to stay constantly alert, but the panoramas make every turn worthwhile.
The mountains of the Serra da Estrela are absolutely worth exploring. Their diversity, combined with moments of pure relaxation, makes this a perfect destination for hikers, nature lovers and those seeking peace and quiet.
And if you really want to experience something special and luxurious, then Hotel Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa is definitely the place to stay. Slow travel at its best!
Would you like more inspiration for unique places to stay in Portugal?
At Reisleven you will find plenty of tips, from sleeping in a wine barrel in the Douro Valley to a stylish city break in Aveiro.
This article has been published on Reisleven.nl on April 23th, 2026
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